how do i find out what class my car falls into

[mopar1]

how do i put my car into a class,i was told there is a website,i have a 1989 honda civic completly stock with a rear strut stabilzer and i have removed the cat.i will also change brake pads.

[JoeT]

how do i put my car into a class,i was told there is a website,i have a 1989 honda civic completly stock with a rear strut stabilzer and i have removed the cat.i will also change brake pads.

Cat removal puts you in SP (I think) but the rules are here: http://solo2.casc.on.ca/info/rules.php

Hope this helps.

[brujack]

If this is your first time competing, you should probably look to hone your skills in local events first for two reasons: they tend to be a little more laid back(fun) and they typically have more liberal car classification systems. Depending on where you are located there are many events per month(GTA) or a few events(rest of Ontario). Ask around here for local events in your area. Honestly you do not want to run in an SP class with a stock Civic because you removed the cat. SP classes are mildly modified cars that typically run on race type tires. Not to discourage you from competing, but you will have more fun running against cars that are closer to your cars ability. Local events are the best place to get comfortable.

Bruce

[tanney]

No matter what anyone says about being competitive in the Provincials (yes there are people who are doing anything they can to bad mouth and put down the Provincial series) come out and meet the great people involved and have some fun.

Club events are good, but regardless, so are the provincials. Go to Zorro and get a highflow cat put back on you car, remove the strut brace at the event and run stock class......

[mopar1]

i read the rules and it says stock class your allowed 2 points,so i removed the rear seat thats 1 point i removed the cat thats 1 point i will add a fire extuinguisher and get a point back but i want to use 15 * 7 rims thats 1 point and r compound tires thats one point.my car came with 13inch wheels does that meen i cant change the diameter and width without loosing a point.
I would rather not put the cat back on if i dont have to but i would like to use r compound tires and bigger rims.any suggestions.

[gatherer]

Correct you can't change the diameter or the width without taking a point. the fire extingsher can only be used to offset the body and trim points (bask seat removal).. I'd recommend placing the cat back on and removing the rear stabilzer bar you added since you can't do that in Stock and it moves you up to SS.

for your car ... you could "attempt" this .. use one point for rrrrrrrrrrrr-compounds that will fit you stock rims and the other point to disconnect the front anti sway bar.

the other option is 1 point for the r-compounds and the other point for the change in wheel size.. I recommend getting the widest wheels witht he smallest diameter that will fit under your fenders.

I'd also recommend a really good alignment that gets you some more rotation around corners.

Either way I'd stick the cat back in and try to keep this sport a little cleaner....

[mopar1]

i could put the cat back on and the back seat back in remove the rear stabilizer bar and use 15 * 7 rims and r rrrrrr compound tires,does that sound correct.i think i am going to read the rulebook front to back this weekend.

[Guillermo]

Your are better off making your car stock again like everyone above mentioned. Then use your 2 points for 13"x7" rims (2" wider wider then stock) and 215/50R13 Kumho V710 R-compound tires. But you should confirm if this will fit without rubbing...

[mopar1]

i will keep it stock put the cat back on and remove the stabilizer bar but would 15 by 7 rims not be a good idea because i found a set of them and was thinking of getting them but mabey i will keep an eye out for 13 by 7rims.

[gatherer]

The smaller the diameter the better the gearing for the civic..

you could go with 15x7 if you want to keep it cheap...

13x7 you might have an issue with them sticking out of the wheel wells, which is something you don't want to do.

a 14x7 works well. it's what I use. (my tires and wheels are for sale. shameless plug.)

The main section you want to read... if you are going to read it front to back is the section on car prep for the stock class (if thats the class you want to be in) after you know that section by heart, then commit the prep point schedule for the stock class to heart and after that then read the whole book cover to cover. Also be prepared for the nap you are going to have when reading the rules.

[mopar1]

how much are you asking and where are you located i am in london.i am also thinking of changing the rear drums to disk brakes and was told a trailing arm assembly off a 1988 to 1993 integra would work would i lose points for that also and what about the emegency brake i was thinking of removing it because if i change the rear brakes i have to modify the brake cable to fit the integra trailing arm.

[gatherer]

stick with the drums and just get good pads for the front the good majority of braking is done by the fronts anyways.

(plus it will move you up the ladder to SP.. I think)

Anyways I'm located in Toronto and the Wheels are 14x7 Team Dynamics with V710s on them. they have been used at 4 events for a total of 20 runs. there is still alot of rubber left on them... I'll take pictures tonight if you are still interested.

[retro_mike]

The smaller the diameter the better the gearing for the civic..

you could go with 15x7 if you want to keep it cheap...

13x7 you might have an issue with them sticking out of the wheel wells, which is something you don't want to do.

a 14x7 works well. it's what I use. (my tires and wheels are for sale. shameless plug.)



Also be aware that any tire sticking out of the wheel wells is a no no unless running SP or higher.

[StewPiddass]

You have to figure out what you want...

Do you want to try to be competitive in a class or do you just want to do cool stuff to your car? You need to be very careful...

It will take a lot of time and careful prep to be competitive in stock class in your car. Every mod needs to be well thought out to make up the 2 points. If it was me I'd put on a big rear swaybar and R compounds on the stock wheel size.

There are many mods which can easily push you up to SP for very little gain. Basically my Civic should be a SS car but I have done a few mods that automatically bump me to SP (lightened flywheel, camber adjustment, integra rear discs and shorter gearing) If I hadn't done these things my car would be VERY competitive in SS, but since I have done them I have to play with some pretty big dogs in SP. I think I'm actually only using about 6 points (16 allowed in SP I think) so I'm nowhere near optimized. But I'm not removing them because I did them for my general enjoyment and not just Solo2.

Gatherer here is a good example, he optimized his car for Stock and SS over the last couple of years and has done very well.

[mopar1]

stick with the drums and just get good pads for the front the good majority of braking is done by the fronts anyways.

(plus it will move you up the ladder to SP.. I think)

Anyways I'm located in Toronto and the Wheels are 14x7 Team Dynamics with V710s on them. they have been used at 4 events for a total of 20 runs. there is still alot of rubber left on them... I'll take pictures tonight if you are still interested.


im not sure if 14 by 7 rims would stick out past the fenders on a 1989 honda civic,im interested if they dont stick out past my fenders,how do i check for that and how much.am i allowwed to remove the rezonator or is that considered the emmision system although it only there to lower dbs.

[Pete@Marcor]

im not sure if 14 by 7 rims would stick out past the fenders on a 1989 honda civic,im interested if they dont stick out past my fenders,how do i check for that and how much.

They do not stick out. The 14X7s that Jason owns are a 38mm offset. Running a 205/55R14 tire will clear everywhere, unless your car is not standard. If you chose to run a 225/50, I would think you will have some fitment issues in the rear.

On another note, you should talk to a few experience people, and listen to what they say about prep. But, ask 10 people, and you will get 10 different answers on that prep.

Understand that you will have a bit of time to learn how to compete in this sport, but you can or will become addicted in short order.

Even though it may be filled with some of the more "stock-looking" cars, understand that a lot of those cars have been prepared to compete and follow the rules that we have set out. There are things that will offer a lot of increase in performance that are allowed, but some things that do not do too much to a stock car will bump you up a class or 2.

Try not to get discouraged if you do not win the first time out, as it is a very fun and rewarding sport.

[mopar1]

i dont plan on winning my first time out,i got bored of karting and wanted to move up to a car and i am looking forward to the challenge.am i allowed to remove the rezonator.

[retro_mike]

Yes. Anything past the cat is free in stock as long as it conforms to CASC-OR noise limits.

[mopar1]

stick with the drums and just get good pads for the front the good majority of braking is done by the fronts anyways.

(plus it will move you up the ladder to SP.. I think)

Anyways I'm located in Toronto and the Wheels are 14x7 Team Dynamics with V710s on them. they have been used at 4 events for a total of 20 runs. there is still alot of rubber left on them... I'll take pictures tonight if you are still interested.

i am interested in the rims you have let me know where in toronto you are and mabey we can meet up,as long as they dont stick out past the fenders,i have been told they wont.

[gatherer]

I'll PM you my contact information

[MazdaMatt]

Just a thought... although we're all interested in going fast, is the 0.5hp gain that you got from removing your cat really worth the emmisions?

As suggested above, I'd say the best mods you can make are R compounds (10,000 times better than any other mod in stock) and the rear sway bar. Ultimate grip and oversteer are the primary factors in going fast in autocross.

Also, be careful about the 'free' point for the fire extinguisher. i believe that rules say that free point can only be used on weight reduction mods (someone please confirm).

-Matt

[Marsh]

Just a thought... although we're all interested in going fast, is the 0.5hp gain that you got from removing your cat really worth the emmisions?

-Matt

0.5hp on your car maybe. Some cars responded to these kinds of mods very well. Especially pre-OBD2 cars! I've heard of ~5 hp on miatas.

[mopar1]

i am finding it hard to find 13 by 7 rims and tires for that matter so i may go with 14 by 7.i am going to put a high flow cat on.i am putting the fire extuinguisher in because there is no back seat.let me know if that offsets the point i am loosing for the backseat.i also removed part of the inner fender to help cool the brakes,the rule book says this is allowed but it also says for the installation of a brake cooling system,i am not going to install anything,is this allowed.