Wheel stud wear/replacement?

[pigeon]

I was just wondering if you guys replace your wheel studs periodically as routine or precautionary maintenence? If so, how long will you use the same set for?

I don't have a problem with mine, however they are the original 10 year old ones, and I couldn't even count the amount of times they've been retorqued. I would never imagine torquing any other bolt on the car this many times without replacing it, so I figure now is a good time to replace them with a new un-stretched set... especially since the wheel bearings are getting done anyways.

This is not something that i've really heard mentioned at the track, or even on the forums... so I was wondering how long you guys use the same set on your solosprint car, or for Arek/Luca/Brian/Dave/ect... your race car?

[Slowpoke]

Fortunately for me I get catastrophic wheel bearing failure at the least once every two years at each corner, so I have to buy new hubs anyway. The new Subaru hubs come with new studs.

Aside from that, I replaced studs in one hub once because I could feel that they weren't threading well.

[Rob]

I break a few every season - I find the nut seizes onto the stud and the only way to get the nut (and wheel) off is to pull out the long breaker bar and break the stud. Thankfully, with a miata, its a 20 minute job to replace the stud, so I carry the appropriate tools and spares.

Can anyone suggest why I am getting so many seized nuts? (yeah, I can hear the jokes now....) I carefully clean the studs and the nuts at every change and I'm careful not to over-torque.

[gaspeddle]

Not 100% sure but I seem to remember that materials used in fastening devices are not always equal. Manufacturers sometimes ensure one piece will fail before the other (ie: oil drain plug threads are made to fail before the treads in the oilpan).

If you're having seizing problems, perhaps it's time for new nuts as friction and stress are changing/reducing the shoulder material of the threads of the nuts rather than the studs.

...food for thought, not scientific proof! I'm sure James would know more about this...

[ScotcH]

The studs I have are aftermarket, at about $8 each. They are basically lifetime parts made to be reused even when I change hubs. The nuts wear out before the studs do.

[MazdaMatt]

I need to replace the 16 studs on my Honda. Should I look for a particular brand, or just get OE replacement? If I'm replacing these, I supposee I should replace the nuts as well, so same question about those...

[Cap'n Pete]

Check out ARP (ie: ARP engine fasteners). I know they make wheel studs for many vehicles, but look them up to see if they carry the ones you guys need. ARP is reknowned for high strength / quality fasteners :cool:.

[thekid]

Chris, to answer your question all of the studs on my race car have been replaced with ARP studs, and as Arek suggested the lugs seem to be the wear item, not the studs.

My spare set of hubs is also outfitted with ARP studs.

[pigeon]

Fortunately for me I get catastrophic wheel bearing failure at the least once every two years at each corner, so I have to buy new hubs anyway. The new Subaru hubs come with new studs.

Aside from that, I replaced studs in one hub once because I could feel that they weren't threading well.
The studs I have are aftermarket, at about $8 each. They are basically lifetime parts made to be reused even when I change hubs. The nuts wear out before the studs do.
So you guys change your entire hub when your wheel bearings fail? You don't just reuse the old hub and have a new bearing pressed in?

[Tashko]

Sometimes when the bearings fail they can spin in the hub, scoring the surface. Need a new hub then.

[pigeon]

Thanks for the responses everyone, i'll make sure to inspect the hub before replacing the bearing.

Brian, do you just use the Miata ARP studs? They don't have anything Protege specific

[thekid]

I will have to look up the part number I used, but it was a part # that ARP specified for some GM model.

If you look on mazda forums you might be able to come up with the part #, if you can't find it let me know and when I'm back home (in the US right now), I can look up the invoice.

[pigeon]

I will have to look up the part number I used, but it was a part # that ARP specified for some GM model.

If you look on mazda forums you might be able to come up with the part #, if you can't find it let me know and when I'm back home (in the US right now), I can look up the invoice.
Perfect, thanks! I'll look it up on msprotege

[Slowpoke]

So you guys change your entire hub when your wheel bearings fail? You don't just reuse the old hub and have a new bearing pressed in?

Subarus are an odd duck. We don't get the typical Honda bearing whine when the bearings START to fail. Some of our cars tend to remain silent as the bearing fails. Your first clue might be brake pedal knock-back. Second clue, a "clicking" from a particular corner as you come off the track hot. You may or may not get play if you grab the wheel and push/pull on it. If the roller bearing race has already self-destructed, your hubs are scored by that point and you still may not feel play at the wheel.

I'm currently working on the Infrared Laser Thermometer measuring wheel temperature after normal driving conditions method.

[pigeon]

I will have to look up the part number I used, but it was a part # that ARP specified for some GM model.

If you look on mazda forums you might be able to come up with the part #, if you can't find it let me know and when I'm back home (in the US right now), I can look up the invoice.
I think I found the one everyone seems to be using. Its 100-7708 for a Camaro, thanks for the help.
You may or may not get play if you grab the wheel and push/pull on it. If the roller bearing race has already self-destructed, your hubs are scored by that point and you still may not feel play at the wheel.
This actually describes my car right now, there is no play at the wheel if I try to push/pull it, however the front bearings have definitely failed.

On the highway, around smooth sweeping curves, if I were to lightly place my foot over the brake pedal I could feel a pulsation. If I apply any braking force, the pulsation goes away. If im going straight, sometimes i'd feel the pulsation, while other times I wont. The only difference from your car is that there is a loud moaning from the front end of mine, which was my first indication to look down there. When I did a quick check, there was no play... Now im wondering if the hubs are going to need replacement

[Slowpoke]

http://spda-online.ca/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=2384&forum=20&post_id=18452#forumpost18452

I saw a post on the HADA forums once... I think it was from Wes or Carl. They mentioned jacking the car up, putting a finger on the coil spring, and turning the wheel. If you feel vibration that transfers up to the coil spring, it's likely that bearing that's failed.

My LF might be on the way out again. :mad:

[bbqman]

In my experience, the above method described by Steven, is the way we diagnose a worn wheel bearing. Sometimes when they are too far gone, the noise or looseness are more obvious symptoms.

As far as wheel studs are concerned, it really depends on the car and your intended use.

Typically Hondas studs out last the bearings and can be re used. Front Honda bearings(as well as Proteges) are sold without the hub so you need to make a stud choice.
ARP is the recognized leader in aftermarket wheel stud replacement but I recommend them only if the car is mainly a track car. Remember ARPs are extended and require open ended nuts for use which may not be practical for street use.

BTW, my ITR has 260,000km on ALL original OE studs.

[finboy]

-torque or remove only when the wheel is cool
-some might argue about using anti seize on studs, but afaik
torque ratings are "dry" numbers
-always finger start
-"star" pattern
-use a torque wrench

[MazdaMatt]

Is there a recommended vendor that can sell me a set of ARP studs for a Del Sol and a set of nuts to go with them? Any idea what these things ought to cost opposed to OE replacement?

[ShaneG]

Ahem! ^^ Carl @ TRAC!

That's wher I got mine!

Shane

[JoeT]

Marcor is a supporter of CASC, you can start there, I'm sure if they don't carry it, they can refer you to CASC's other supporters.

[brokenparts]

Is there a recommended vendor that can sell me a set of ARP studs for a Del Sol and a set of nuts to go with them? Any idea what these things ought to cost opposed to OE replacement?
For ARP studs you can use stock nuts and knock the end caps off with a chisel

New nuts from honda are priced ...well nuts :eek:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v245/bustedshocks/ciz5.jpg


btw if anyone was curious since we are talking nuts

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v245/bustedshocks/nuts3-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v245/bustedshocks/nuts1-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v245/bustedshocks/nuts5-1.jpg