Updates on the Mullet

[RacerRick]

To stop the hyjacking of Adams thread and get the Smack talking flowing in there again, I have started this thread on the Mullet updates.

You can also go tohere (http://www.phoenixforce.org) to see the pics etc.

The Mullet's engine has been torn down the short block after removing 1 stripped nut on the turbo and 2 completely rusted studs on the exhaust manifold. It was not pretty how it was done.

The previous owners claim of a blown head gasket was not true. However the valvetrain is seriously screwed up. Bent and broken pushrods, mismatched valve retainers, and wrecked rocker arms. It did show extremely clean heads however, until a bunch of crap was dropped in while removing the valave cover.

The bores at least are near perfect :) The bearings are down to copper on both the mains and the rods, but there is a fully balanced and formerly blueprinted rotating assembly and block that only needs a cylinder hone, rings, and bearings to be ready to ride again! I am going to drag the lump to my engine builder friend and get him to take a good look at everything.

And the turbo is now nice and spinny! No play at all in the bearings, and it spins nicely with no binding now

:cool:

[Shaman]

Good lord.

[DECH_92]

Promise, I will get back to you in a day or so to let you no about the car.

[RacerRick]

Great. I need lots of bits that are on that car :)

[ADAM]

what was siezing the turbo from spinning?

[RacerRick]

Rust in the exhaust housing. I have seen it before on cars that have sat for a long time. The turbo looks like it is actually in pretty good shape.

[DECH_92]

Sorry for taking so long
Are you still intersted in the car
Make a offer
My guy just needs the k-member
Car has 3.42 rear end no posi
stock heads and engine , bla bla bla and its a automatic trans
solid body just passenger rear quarter needs work, no tee roof

[RacerRick]

The mullet has been hibernating a little as I tended to my daily driver which decided to blow a head gasket. Upon teardown I found some other damage and had to replace a rocker shaft and a single badly gauled rocker on the daily driver. Oh well.

I have been working on the Camaro as time allows and have the front clip holding on with just 4 bolts that have to be accessed from below. I also have to take a whole bunch of parts home to clean, and detail. only 132 days until the challange!

[RacerRick]

The 350 chevrolet engine has gone to the engine shop for a good cleaning and check out. I am trading some welding, and the 209 casting block and 624 casting heads for the proper 010 casting block and 882 casting heads. I am even stepping up to a 4 bolt block.

I am reusing my balanced rotating assembly and forged pistons since they are still in good shape.

Luckily my machinist is willing to barter and would rather have the passenger side dipstick 209 block instead of the driver side dipstick 010 block.

I was also given a really nice oil pan and windage tray for the 350. It has a deep sump with dual kickouts, trapdoors, and some extra ventiation from rods exiting the block on its previous motor. Luckily it doesn't hit any of the stuff I want to keep so I get to cut the sump off and weld it to a good pan. For the people at the shop - look in the pan. It came with some extra stuff that is worth a chuckle.

I have also located a 3.08 posi disk brake rear end for the Camaro for the price o' $250. Sweeet. I have been offered that much for the rear end that is in the car. So, this could be good :)

Now all I have to do is locate a new bypass valve for a rare aftermarket turbo system that has not been made since the early 80's.

[Gary]

If you find a source for the boost controller, can you let me know about it? We've got a half restored '80 Firebird Indy Pace car on the go at the moment and while the powertrain is now all redone, there's one missing item......the turbo boost controller. I'm not panicking just yet, while efforts are focused on the body. However, once that's done, it needs to start to go back together, and the boost controller is high on the list of parts we need, but don't have. The engine is probably better as a boat anchor, as it's a Pontiac 301 Turbo. You know, the one with no counterweights on the crank, and the super thin block. (Can you say cracks?) Anyhow, it's original, and the numbers all match, so we're trying to save it. Don't ask why. I've no idea.... Maybe its because they made 5000 of 'em, and 4500 blew up within the first 50,000 miles, which makes it rare.......

Are you still using the body shell in the original photos? I saw the pictures of the floors in the Camaro, and concluded you were a brave man. Either that, or we've been lucky, as the 'Bird wasn't anywhere near as bad, but we've still spent hours blasting tons of rust off virtually everything, and still have lots of sheet metal to replace. If you don't like surprises, don't take the glass out......

Gary

[RacerRick]

I know how these like to rust the cowl, but it is very solid except for the drivers floor. It looks like the drivers T-top leaks.

Lukily the trunk, cowl, and rest of the car is very solid. Only other real rust in the car is the rad support.

I also have picked up a 78' Z28 that has nearly no rust and am thinking of doing that one since it requires much less work to the body. It only has quarter panel rust in one side, a nice nose, and a unbroken windshield.

[DECH_92]

Mailed out that form for ya:D

[RacerRick]

Wunderful! Merry Xmas!

I might have a line on a nitrous kit for the mullet too :)

It would only be for the $2004 challange though :D

[RacerRick]

The work on the mullet began in earnest over the Xmas holidays. There was talk of using the really solid 78' Z28 I picked up from another board member (thanks) but we were too far into the 80' Z28 to start over.


The entire front end has come off to the frame rails. The fenders are nice, but one of the inner fenders has minor rust. Several bolts rounded and needed the flame wrench taken to them to come off. The bumper assembly is freaking huge and heavy. It and all the braces and brackets for the stupid thing weigh over 100 lbs.

Unfortunately this showcased some cowl rust and showed the rad crossmember rust to be worse than we thought. It also allowed me to get a real good look at he floor rust. Or actually the shops concrete floor though the holes where a floor should be. A new drivers side pan has been ordered. There is nothing there to fix.

The cowl rust has been all welded up, but the windshield has to be removed to finish it properly. The windshield (broken when I got the car) now has a nice message on it for your 240SX drivers.

We also removed the heater box, ancient pioneer tape deck, Fosgate amp, and the exhaust system. We started cleaning out the frame rails, but didn't finish. There is 18lbs of dirt that was formerly residing in the rails moved on to a new home. There is probally still another 25+ lbs of mud inside the frame.

[Gary]

Rick:

Not surprised to hear the bottom of your rad support isn't there anymore. We had the identical problem, although it's all welded up now, and covered in several coats of chassis black.

I was reflecting on your removal of the front clip and all the work involved in that, including just getting rid of the many pounds of crud, rust, scale and dirt that somehow accumulates. Been there, done that, it's a lot of work. To get to the point, I got to thinking about putting new bushings in the control arms. I've got a set of Energy Suspension upper and lower urethane front control arm bushings, including new steel shells and tubes for the bolts. It is Energy Suspension part number 3.3106G. Supposedly for GM front control arms, including 80-81 Camaro. I bought 'em mail order, and the upper control arm bushings did not fit the upper control arms that were on the Firebird. The upper bushings were too small. The OD of the steel shells for the upper control arm bushings are: small one, 1.32 inches, large one, 1.42 inches, or thereabouts. The lower control arm bushings Would have fit fine, but I bought another complete set that did fit, and got them installed instead. So, I've got these in my basement gathering dust. If they are the right size, and you want 'em, I'll make you a deal you can't refuse, so long as you pick them up. Send me a PM if you are interested.

[AirCooln]

The windshield (broken when I got the car) now has a nice message on it for your 240SX drivers.


Hehe, sorry Eric, I couldn't resit posting your message......

http://www.lethalmonkey.com/motorsport/1979mini/progjan11044.JPG
http://www.lethalmonkey.com/motorsport/1979mini/progjan11045.JPG

[RacerRick]

More Mullet updates!

Due to using a carb and stock HEI ignition and requiring to resubmit a dyno plot every time I jet the carb or change the timing, I am building a engine after the challange that will have a maximum of 11 points. No dyno plot!

This is so I can tune the engine for fuel and weather conditions since there is no built in way for a carburator to compensate, unlike EFI.

So after the challenge I am building a nice little engine with stock late model heads, cam and headers. Hopefully we can find 425+ hp in this combo and lose little to the turbo setup. So far it looks like I am at about 11 points for this engine :)

I recalculated my points and it looks like GT3 will be where the car lands with this engine. and it should be low, low maintainance.

More reason for all you people to fear the mullet!

[philip_240sx]

GT3 eh?

I guess we may see the Mullet battle a 240 after all.... :D

[haniforama]

I look forward to beating the Mullet with my mighty Civic :D

[RacerRick]

We will see...we will see.

If I can get it to turn it should be competitive. At 3000lbs its no honda lightweight!

[JAYh]

Eric, I've been watching your site but nothing's been happening!

How 'bout a Mullety update? :D

- J

[RacerRick]

I have been too busy working on the car to make more updates!

It now has the subframe connectors installed, welded and sealed. The subframe has been cleaned, seam welded and painted, the entire front end has been rebuilt with poly bushings, new balljoints, spindles for the bigger brakes, 650 in/lb springs, and new hardware throughout. The subframe is on solid body bushings with stainless steel hardware and tabs welded to the body to keep it all in place. Everything in the front end has been cleaned and painted.

The front bumper has been cut down quite a bit and painted, and the trans crossmember has also been all cleaned and painted.

The A/C has been removed and replaced with a standard heater setup, all the sound deadening has been removed, and the floor has been fixed except for one hole (the big one). The cowl has been fixed and painted, and everything not needed behind the dash has been gutted.

The engine is coming together, and I have the heads all ported and ready to go onto the engine as soon as we get the shortblock put back together.

Brakes and shocks are on order, and I have to see about picking up a set of race tires this weekend.

I just got another parts car that will donate a lot of much needed parts to the project. As soon as I can get it that is.

I also picked up a nice little Waterloo rollaway tool box at crappy tire :)

[ScotcH]

Ok ... how the hell is this all costing less than $2004???? Just a set of coil-overs for my car cost more than that!

I gotta get me a old ass piece of detroit iron ... how would a buick GN handle on the track :eek:

[Doug P]

R compounds.:)

http://racing.kos.net/soloforums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1952

[RacerRick]

Those R compounds won't fit into my $2004 budget.

2nd Gen Camaros are super cheap to get parts for. The springs for the front end were only $70, and the total for the front end parts was only $150 :) The complete 12" front brake setup is around $250 with crossdrilled rotors and race pads. My calipers are $15 each - new!

I love it!

[JAYh]

Awesome! Glad to hear it's going well!
Are you driving it to Florida or trailering?

- J

[RacerRick]

I want to trailer it since we are going to be coming right down to the wire getting it done. At least my motor will be done this week and I can probally have it in the car this weekend.

[silverwolfracin]

I still have the two sets of R compound tires and Rims for you. Make an offer or tell me what you have to trade (welding skills? I have an ice racer that needs some rad support re-enforcing)
Also I need rear adjustable shocks for an 86 Mustang.
I need a hood and front fenders for 91 Summit.
New fence in my backyard:D
Let me know. Don't want you sliding off the track.

[RacerRick]

I was offered two sets of Hoosiers for free if I just go and unmount them.

I don't really have time to do any work on anyone elses car or any ford or impulse parts.

[RacerRick]

More mullety updates!

I have been busy.

We blew up the engine on the dyno. It made a lot more power than we thought it would, and it should have at that point had aftermarket rods. It should have also had an aftermarket cam retention plate. Woops.

So the original engine is going back in, just freshend with a new set of stock heads to replace the cracked originals. They are ported however, and might end up with the turbo back on it. Or I might just throw on a set of small chamber heads to get the compression back to stock.

But anyways...

So far I have gotten a parts car with a good rad support (that still needed repair) and fixed and installed that. I now have all the parts I need to put the car together and am trading for a fuel cell, racing harnesses and a MAC dual 3" exhaust system for parts from the parts car.

I have also started to install the fenders, inner fenders, and welded up the drivers side floor - but that still needs some finish work. The roll bar still needs to be bent and installed.

All new adjustable racing shocks are installed ($40 each!) and the rear spring mounts have been raised to lower the car.

We are freshening the stock engine with the turbo pistons (7.63:1 compression) and if I don't stick the turbo back on, I have now ported two sets of heads. The stock 76 cc chamber heads and a set of nearly identical 305 heads that have 58cc chambers and bring my compression back up to stock if I use a thin gasket.

I am converting the car to manual windows and still have to remove the door bars from the car.

[RacerRick]

more updates!

The mighty Mullet now has a complete front end on it and looks like a car again.

The rad cradle has been repaired as well as the one rusty inner fender. They have also been installed and the passenger side just needs a little tweaking to be aligned.

The passenger side floor has been painted and sealed, and the drivers floor is almost done. Only needs minor finishing now.

The dash is back in the car also, the trunk has a latch, and my motor is nearly back together. I want to see what the car is like with the turbo setup so I am going to try that for a bit. Then I will finish the 305 heads and probally stick them on.

The turbo exhaust housing has had its broken bolts removed and I machined the flanges to get rid of any warp or pitting. The turbo is out being rebuilt.

I want to be putting the roll bar in this weekend and running all the brake lines, and fuel line. I should be getting the fuel cell this weekend also.

[ADAM]

holy crap...he just might make it!!!!!

may 29 is coming quick.... but the mullet boys are building hard and fast!!!!


good work eric....!!

[RacerRick]

I have to see where it lands with the turbo setup, but I am pretty sure I will be GT1 or SGT3 with the turbo. The car won't be competitive at that level with only 6psi.

NA it looks like GT3.

[ADAM]

i put a new stereo in for you :)

you will see it next time you are at ORF :)

its all german.....

[RacerRick]

I saw the stereo - how could you not want that classic piece of germanic stereophonic equipment in your car?

More mullety goodness!

The drivers floor is done! Now the cage can go in.

I spent most of the saturday this weekend cleaning the various little brackets and painting them, as well as dissassembling and rebuilding/disabling the factory proportioning valve since I am going with an aftermarket adjustable one. I also spent a good amount of time getting the proper fitting for the brakes. I am still short a few so I couldn't start the brake lines.

Next time anyone is at the shop, they should check out the brakes on the front of the camaro. :) I put all new timken bearings in the new crossdrilled 1LE rotors. and put on my new calipers with all new hardware. Just need to trade the wrong brake pads I got with my order for the proper brake pads from Williams and run some lines and the brakes are done (for now).

[RacerRick]

Well, the ATL 8 gallon fuel cell was installed, flush in the trunk. 0.125" plate was welded around the hole cut into the floor and tied into the original fuel tank crossmembers. I think I went overkill on the cells retention, but its really not going anywhere.

I think I am going to be filling up this car a lot with the smallish fuel cell and the largish V8.

Fuel lines still have to be run....as well as the brakes lines. Waiting for the braided stainless flex lines still. I might just stick on a new set of stockers to get the car moving.

The seats were mounted, then remounted, then remounted. Then the mounts were taken off and tossed and the sliders were directly bolted to the floor. Now my head doesn't stick out the T-tops. Then after some measuring, the seats were removed so the cage could be welded in.

The Roll bars main hoop was bent, the floor plates welded in from the front and the hoops and the rear bars fishmounthed, cut and welded. The front hoop plates tie into the rear suspension mounts, frame rails, and rocker panels, and the rear plates tie into the rear frame rails. Again, I think a little overkill is just right.
This would be soooo much easier in a different car, especially a hatchback. But then again it would be much easier if I wasn't going with a more complicated design.

The swing out door bars still need to be cut and fitted, as well as the cross bracing. The bar is SCCA and NHRA legal in case I want to go drag racing. Its even legal for Targa Newfoundland :)

The engine is done and I just have to pick it up :) Had to wait for the baffled, trapdoor'd, racing pan with dual kickouts for oil control. Woot. Still waiting for the turbo to be rebuilt. They are waiting for the rebuilt kit for the 25 year old turbo to arrive. Maybe its time for an upgrade.

I can't wait for this thing to be done....I have to find the time to go and get another set of rims from someone also so I can mount the Hoosiers I scored a little while ago.

Anyone know how to do a basic alignment at home?

[RacerRick]

Super Duper Mullety updates!

The Mullet has has tons of work done to it!

The engine is done and installed. At the last minute I scored a stock set of heads that we ported and put the 305 small chamber heads aside incase I want to run NA. With a thin head gasket the compression is back to stock, even with the dished pistons.

The engine is in the car with the trans, new scatter shield, clutch, pressure plate, etc. The hurst shifter is cool, but the T handle has to go. New poly engine and transmission mounts, etc. I am still waiting on the turbo - the rebuild kit is on backorder and the person I had rebuilding it couldn't get it. So I tracked one down and have ordered it. The turbo manifolds have all been restored, and all that is needed for the turbo system to be put back together is the turbo and bypass valve which my friend if rebuilding for me.

The front brakes are all done - 12" crossdrilled cryo treated disks with a vette manual master cylinder. I just have to pick up a adjustable prop valve and install the 11" rear disk setup I picked up. Sweet.

The roll bar is all done except for one cross brace that I am leaving out until I make the firewall in the back. Otherwise its very difficult to get behind the cage.

I needed to order a new top for the fuel cell and it should be here any day. A new starter, alternator, water pump, are on their way and should be installed in the next week or two. When the new top for the fuel cell is in, the car is ready to be started.

The new exhaust needs to be brought to the shop and installed. I need to pick up some 3/8" bolts that are longer than stock for the turbo manifold. I am seeing if they come in stainless steel.

[AirCooln]

We might make it to an event at about the same time. Our cars are progressing at roughly the same rate.

My electrical system is just about done, everything works and the Autometer gauges are in. Fuel Cell is in. Alignment is done. It was thought that I should have some sold rear subframe mounts, those are coming in tomorrow, then another alignment. After that is the turbo toys, do the brakes and mount the tires.

Since I'm not doing the Mostport thing, I should be event 9.

[RacerRick]

This sunday I will be up finishing the fuel system, and if I get the metal in time, the rear firewall. If I can't get the metal I will make the front frame braces.

The roll bar came out pretty nice, but I still have to weld in the cross bar. I left it out so I can do the firewall easier.

I have a week off and can only work on the car for 2 days. That really sucks.

[RacerRick]

Had a week off and had only 1 day to work on the Mullet...<sigh>

Went up in my buddies car which expired on the way up and had to be nursed to the shop. We thought a head gasket had gone but after pulling the heads found every single piston missing chunks around the rings lands and a broken ring in the number 5 cylinder, along with a collasped skirt. The cylinder wall had a quarter inch ridge...too far gone to bore. Have to sleeve the block and even that looks iffy. Its amazing that the wall didn't crack or break through to water.

No more Hypereutectics for him. If this guy didn't have bad luck, he would have no luck at all. Hes still trying to find a way to get the car home.

I did get some work done on the mullet. The rear end was rebuilt with new axles that don't have rust pitting on the sealing surface, and an 11" disk brake setup. A non-rotted inspection cover was installed also. The only thing holding the fluid in on the last cover was the dirt. Its all together now with some nice synthetic fluid and friction modifyer for the posi. All new heavy duty studs were driven into the axles.

I also finished mounting the fuel cell and started painting the cage. The fuel can is recessed into the floor, and welded in place with 1/8" steel plate reinforcement around the perimeter strengthen the mount and tie into the existing structure. The can is welded in, and uses 2" x 1/8" thick straps to retain the 8 gallon fuel cell. The straps are retained by 3/8" Grade 5 bolts which are mounted to the reinforcements and frame rails. I can lift the back of the car up by the retaining straps :)

I think the fuel cell is going nowhere. After anothers members problems with mounting his cell, I decided overkill was just right.

I replaced the filler on my cell with a a new one without the external fill option. This gave me a chance to replace the foam and add the larger -8 fuel pickup. The new filler also has a lot more safety features than the previous one since it was designed to be filled directly. ATL makes nice stuff.

Everything got a few coats of tremclad to keep it from rusting up. I need to buy a few fittings and my fuel system is complete.

Sitting in the back of my minivan right now are the new rear rotors and a band new corvette master cylinder. My rear calipers are out being rebuit.

When I get my rear calipers back, a few brake lines and my brake system is complete.

My turbo rebuild kit should be any day. A few days after that I should be able to finally start the mullet for the first time.

The dash is back in the car and so is the guage cluster, but its coming back out so I can make a custom brake pushrod to adjust the height of the brake pedal.

All I need to do now is finish a bunch of little things...and a few big things like the turbo, rear firewall and new master cylinder : P

I really really want to make Mosport.

[Doug P]

Ben Wong has some lightly used (6 Solo 2 events) 032RS tires for sale.

315 wide, big rubber!

[RacerRick]

315's won't fit. About the largest I can go is 265's.

[RacerRick]

Even more mullety goodness...

I have received my turbo rebuild kit finally! Woohoo! Next week the turbo should be done and on the car.

I also picked up nearly all of my fuel system fittings. Stuff is like jewelry, pricewise! But its all -8 so I should have no starvation issues.

I will be picking up my new alternator, starter, and water pump this weekend, and the carb rebuild kit, as well as bringing the 3" dual exhaust to the shop to fit.

All I am waiting for is my rear calipers to be finished (next week) and the brakes will be 100% done.

Two weeks to mosport!


All that is left to be done is:

Rear Firewall
Weld in the last tube on roll bar leftout for the rear firewall install
Run the fuel line
Install rear calipers and pads
Install E-brake cables
Install front engine accessories
Install Oil cooler
Install PS cooler
Install turbo
Install exhaust
Install racing seats
Install Racing harnesses
Install front frame to firewall bars
Install radialtor
Install front bumper
Install front bumpre cover
Install exhaust
Install battery with new grounds
Install new starter
Install front sway bar.


Un-oh...I better get cracking....

[RacerRick]

I forgot - and clean out the glass beads for the seized bypass valve for the turbo.


Did that last night. Are you supposed to take a cold chisel and 2.5lb sledge to a bypass valve? I think it needs some JB weld now...

[RacerRick]

Custom front frame to firewall braces are in and painted. The are commonly called frame saver bars in drag racing.

new rear disks are on, the fuel fittings for the fuel cell are installed, corvette master culinder has been fitted - needed some mods to the firewall brake support to fit.

[RacerRick]

More mullet happenings...trying to make mosport...

Had to modify the brake pedal for the vette master, so I replaced the bushings in it at the same time tonight. Measured and cut the new brake master pushrod, and installed the boot. Heght is perfect for heel/toe ;)

Started making brake lines but my double flare tool broke...At least the front is entirely plumbed now, incuding the master. Still need to do the prop valve and rear lines.

Installed the wiring harness for the engine compartment, which included some minor re-routing due to the new firewall braces.

Installed the dash support braces, and installed the dash for the last time.

Even got the bypass valve for the turbo fixed....

Whew...