What's legal for "stock"

[Gautreau]

Greetings, my name is Ayden Gautreau I've been reading info on this board for a couple years now but haven't really become involved yet. 2 summers ago I attended almost every Solo 2 event, you may have seen me, I was driving a black 2nd gen probe. Last summer I only made it out to one event which I'm a little pissed about.

I've recently acquired a 1990 miata that I'm going to be running this year. I don't care if I'm competitive but I'd like to keep the car in the stock class so I can have a benchmark and see if my driving progresses over the summer (no experience with a RWD car).

My question is this, what mods can I do and still remain in a stock class?

So far I was thinking tires (Star Spec, RE-11, 615-K, etc.), wheels (lightweight 15"), brakes pads, cat-back, and cold-air intake. Does this sound about right?

Thanks in advance and I hope to see you guys at the events.

[stealthie1]

as far as I know, the catback is good, any street tire is good. The wheels will cost you a point but I think CAI will knock you out of stock class.

[elementZ]

Greetings, my name is Ayden Gautreau I've been reading info on this board for a couple years now but haven't really become involved yet. 2 summers ago I attended almost every Solo 2 event, you may have seen me, I was driving a black 2nd gen probe. Last summer I only made it out to one event which I'm a little pissed about.

I've recently acquired a 1990 miata that I'm going to be running this year. I don't care if I'm competitive but I'd like to keep the car in the stock class so I can have a benchmark and see if my driving progresses over the summer (no experience with a RWD car).

My question is this, what mods can I do and still remain in a stock class?

you are allowed max 2 points in stock class

So far I was thinking tires (Star Spec, RE-11, 615-K, etc.), you can run any DOT street tire
any wheels (lightweight 15") Changing the rims will cost you 1 point
brakes pads you can only change the brake pad material. no drilled/slotted rotors or braided lines allowed unless you go into super stock
cat-back, allowed with stock header and cat
cold-air intake. not allowed in stock class. you can only change the filter. you have to go into super stock to run a CAI

Does this sound about right?

Thanks in advance and I hope to see you guys at the events.

Based on what you have, I believe you are using 1 of your 2 allowed points.

[stealthie1]

Knew I was right! hahaha

[darcyw]

side point...watch that short crank nose (crank wobble) as the 90 and early 91 model 1.6 L had a design flaw. it doesn't affect all engines, but when it does, the engine is done. good luck in the new miata.

later
darcy

[Marsh]

side point...watch that short crank nose (crank wobble) as the 90 and early 91 model 1.6 L had a design flaw. it doesn't affect all engines, but when it does, the engine is done. good luck in the new miata.

later
darcy

Well, no there are several options and solutions. The permanent one being a new crank. But it's usually easier to buy another and sell yours than to fix it.

[Gautreau]

Hmm, that's not great news. I've been having a real hassle with this car already trying to get it insured and registered. My insurance company says it's too old to insure (by one year), and the classic car companies won't insure me because I'm 24 (one year too young). Also, the MTO says it needs to be appraised before I can get it registered. The car was a graduation gift so I don't want to be a brat and go sell it. I think I'm gonna just drive it and enjoy it, if the engine blows up so be it.

[Pete@Marcor]

Actually, the wheels might be a 0 point mod. If the wheels are the size as stock, and within 1/4" of offset, they would not be "charged" any prep points.

If you are thinking of buying wheels for this year, consider buying a set of 15" wheels and some used 205/50R15 R-compounds. This would be your 2 points for stock, and you would not wear out your street tires.

The tires will be available at a reasonable deal, and you can use the 15" wheels for street wheels when the rules get changed to require stock wheels in Stock.

[darcyw]

Hmm, that's not great news. I've been having a real hassle with this car already trying to get it insured and registered. My insurance company says it's too old to insure (by one year), and the classic car companies won't insure me because I'm 24 (one year too young). Also, the MTO says it needs to be appraised before I can get it registered.

I've never heard of a car being too old to insure by normal means. i've got an '88 GTX insured easily through state farm. If it was a salvage/rebuilt title from the States i can see the issue with the MTO and insurance. Insurance companies need an appraisal for replacement value. Classic car insurance also requires that appraisal as well.

This link will tell you about the short crank nose issue in detail.
http://www.miata.net/garage/crankshaft.html
...so don't stress too much about it, but if you start having serious driveability issues, be prepared.

see you on course.

darcy

[mikewolf]

If you don't already have wheels and tires, I would recomend getting a different setup. 13x7.5 Lensos and 710's or hoosiers would be faster. I wouldn't worry about the short nose crank issue too much I have 3 cars with short nose cranks all with over 200k and none of them have had an issue.

[Marsh]

The short nose crank is only an issue if the timing belt wasn't done properly at some time in the past. Of course the issue is also moot if it happened and was FIXED some time in the past.

I had a short nose car. We did some things to fix it and it developed some other issues that lead to my replacing the car. But the car rolled 300,000km while I had it.

Never heard of a 1990 being "too old to insure". That sounds like the insurance company making up BS reasons not to insure a younger guy in a sports car.

[Pete@Marcor]

If you don't already have wheels and tires, I would recomend getting a different setup. 13x7.5 Lensos and 710's or hoosiers would be faster. I wouldn't worry about the short nose crank issue too much I have 3 cars with short nose cranks all with over 200k and none of them have had an issue.

I actually agree that this combo would be the faster one, but my concern was length of use. If one can find this combination used, it would be a good deal, but I would be worried about it becoming obsolete in a year. 15" wheels would be easier to sell if needed, and be an ok street setup.

Also, since this is the OP's first year of Provincial events, 15" used R-compounds would be possible to find in the used market. Do the Lenso's and 13" tires come on the market very often? I just don't know, since I don't own a Miata.

However, if you planned on moving to SS or SP eventually, the 13" setup would last you a while. I buy and sell wheels often, so it is not a huge concern, but a lot of people don't.

[twinch]

Just read up on that short nose crank problem and it seems like an odd issue. I guess every car has their stupid problems.

You can't get it insured at all or is it that they need to have someone come out to look at it before insuring it? My insurance company said I needed to have someone take a look at my 95 Spirit next year in order to have it insured. I'm pretty sure your insurance company is just making excuses if they won't insure it all.

Good luck this year in Stock class (If you do in fact stay in it) You are going to love participating in this sport, and you will be hooked FOREVER!!!!!

[Rallymodeller]

The insurance thing is bizarre. I got insurance for my '87 CRX over the phone. Same with my '80 Volvo and '82 280ZX.

Methinks you need to find another insurance company.

[.Mad Hatter.]

Maybe it has to do with him being a 1st time car owner? I recently insured the Coupe (which was no issue), but the MTO did require an appraisal because it was more than 25 years old and considered "classic".

Anyone who was at the DDT can confirm that I was not trying to pass off an expensive collectable as a beater. :D

[Ziploc]

Also remember that shocks are a free mod! And on a 90 it will make a massive difference if the shocks are currently original.

[Gautreau]

For shocks would I be able to put some adjustable ones on?

I'm probably going to go with 15" wheels and RE-11s or Star Specs. I want something decent in the rain and I don't feel like getting a second set of wheels and tires, plus the hassle of changing them at every event.

As far as the insurance thing goes, I have now got insurance for it. I have my daily ('94 Impreza Wagon) insured with one company and the miata with another. My original company just wouldn't do the 20 year old car. I also checked to see if it would've been worth it to move both cars to another company, but I'm getting such a good rate at my original company that it's not. Hopefully next summer when I'm 25 I can get classic insurance.

The appraisal is only for the MTO. I'm pretty sure it's just so they can get more money on taxes. Honestly I would rather have just paid more on taxes because now I have to make an appointment with an appraiser, pay him, then go back to the MTO again. I should have just bribed the lady.

[blur911]

The appraisal is only for the MTO. I'm pretty sure it's just so they can get more money on taxes. Honestly I would rather have just paid more on taxes because now I have to make an appointment with an appraiser, pay him, then go back to the MTO again. I should have just bribed the lady.

You don't need a real $200+ full appraisal for MTO, don't waste your money unless you really want an appraisal report.
From the MTO "How to buy a used car site:

How are the wholesale and retails values determined?

For personal vehicles, these values are based on the average amounts paid for vehicles of the same year, make and model. The values do not take into account optional equipment, vehicle condition, or the number of kilometres. These values can change from the date you pick up the Used Vehicle Information Package to the date of the vehicle transfer.

For passenger and light commercial vehicles (2,200 kilograms and under empty weight) 20 years or older, the retail sales tax is payable on the purchase price, replacement value for insurance purposes, or appraised value, whichever is more.

If you paid less than the Canadian Red Book value, you can get the vehicle appraised before changing ownership. If the appraisal supports a lower price than the Canadian Red Book, the buyer pays tax based on the higher value.

An appraisal or insurance document showing the vehicle's value must accompany the bill of sale.

If the vehicle transfer and tax payment based on the average wholesale value have been processed at the Driver and Vehicle Licence Issuing Office, an appraisal and an application for a tax refund must be sent to the Ministry of Revenue. Appraisal forms are available from Driver and Vehicle Licence Issuing Offices and Ministry of Revenue offices.

[Ziploc]

For shocks would I be able to put some adjustable ones on?

As far as I know adjustable should be fine.

[finboy]

like any sport, any activity.. get familiar with the rules and regs and get grounded

http://solo2.casc.on.ca/info/rules.php

[thgear]

thats a crazy rulebook, btw.

[Rallymodeller]

Maybe it has to do with him being a 1st time car owner? I recently insured the Coupe (which was no issue), but the MTO did require an appraisal because it was more than 25 years old and considered "classic".

Anyone who was at the DDT can confirm that I was not trying to pass off an expensive collectable as a beater. :D


Same here with the CRX, although the rule is 20 years old or older. Mainly this is for tax reasons -- they have to determine how much sales tax to charge on the car. The MTO uses the Blue Book on everything down to 20 years ago but older than that needs a tax appraisal because they are not in the book.

[ljking]

about your insurance. I had tha same issue, my previous insurance company would not insure an old car (1970) so I called around. Co-operators said no problem even though I wasn't a customer (I am now).

[Mule]

I had no problem insuring my 88 944s. Yes, you do need an appraisal.Some used car lots can do it. You may fall into the same issue that I have. An E-test every year. 87 down not needed, 88 to ? every year.Check with MTO before you plate the car, saves on surprises.

[Caveman]

I have the same issue with a 88 RX7
E test req till minimum 30 years old, at that time you can have the car classed historic, then no e test. But the car has to be completely bone stock, as it came from the dealer