HELP! Wheel Locks! NO KEY!

[turboawd]

I've done this once too many. Left the key on the wheel lock and went for a test run. The key is history and it was my last. The locks are old, momo type, with ridges on the outside. The key is like a big socket with grooves on the inside and fits ovet the lock when the grooves and ridges match. The butt end is smooth. The wheel nut area is deep dish so there is not much room around it, about 50% of lock is accessable. How do I get these locks off now. I need help or no racing for me this weekend! Plus I need to find 4-19mm wheel nuts.

[Dave]

I had this happen too recently, using McGard wheel locks, and what I did to get them off is as follows:

Took a 19mm socket and dremelled the inside out a bit and then hammered the socket on over the wheel lock with a big heavy hammer. This basically forced the socket onto the lock nut extremely tightly, allowing me to then crack the nut loose like you would any normal lug nut. The key is to just remove enough material from the inside of the socket to allow it to be forced over the lock nut using considerable hammering force. This did the trick for me. You'll obviously ruin the socket and potentially the lock nuts in the process, but such is life.

If this doesn't work, you may be forced to torch off the lock nuts, which'll potentially damage your rims and studs.

Hope to see you at Shannonville,
Dave

[DECH_92]

I did the same the day befor event 1 , but found it a mile away in the driveway turned around in.

I found my bill that had a code number on it to replace it with a new one, but if you have your bill or code, it will probably take a week or so to get a new one.

Goodluck, hope you get in of somehow it time

[Shaman]

I had to do a Pratte on my car, too. It made me a little sick hammering the socket on, but it worked. Thankfully, I had only one locking nut per wheel. Only the Shadow knows where my key went to, because I swear I saw it in the glove box, the last time I was in the car.

[Herb]

1) I have heard that universal keys are avaliable from some of the top-end tool companies and some garages/tire places have them , because they run into this situation often.

2) Weld something to the lug nut. If you can get at it. Pay attention to were your welding ground is and or pull the computer first. At the very least pull the neg battery cable. I have done this when the lock nuts were put on so tight by a shop, the key twisted off. The bottom line is if you are going to try this find someone who know what they are doing,and the will use a high strength alloy.

[Herb]

I am pretty confident if you get the lug nut hot enough to cut with a torch you will damage the rim beyound repair, Even if it looks usable , the structure of the alloy will be altered and not near as strong as before.

[blur]

Hi

I just wanted to point out that if you do weld something on to remove them put the ground on the wheel side of the car or you will also ruin the bearings by sending current through them. I think hammering on a socket is the better way to go, of course this will probably only work if they are properly torqued, not impact wrench hammered on to 300ft/lbs.

Oh yeah, I removed some McGard (sp) locks with a pipewrench once but they were fairly well exposed.

Good luck.

[Herb]

I would try and put the ground on what ever you are welding on so that you dont hurt the bearings , In the case i was working on the nuts
where over 200 ft lbs. (could explain why the key twisted of)

[turboawd]

Screw the welding mess and danger. I got them off. Thanks for the suggestions. I had a 13/16 multi-point/sided socket and a calibrated 5 lb sledge. The locks were softer metal and the one socket did all 4 locks with only very minor damage to socket, its still good. A 6 point/sided socket would not work in this instance unless you got a bigger size but then there wouldn't be clearance.