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Apex177
09-27-2015, 11:55 AM
Ok so yesterday at the shootout I had some issues with my rear diff. The seemed to have started after my spin in the second practice however the track was cold in the morning so it may have masked this issue. Coming out of slow corners (3 and 4), I would have excessive wheel spin on the inside tire as soon as I accelerated. As the day went on it seemed to get worse, in the last session it was happening through 1,2,3,4,5 and 7? (the corner entering the back straight). At this point I was off pace and decided to pull off befor I got in anyones way. Now when I trie to do a burnout the diff works fine, both tires lock and I get equal length patches of rubber. The car is equipped from factory with a torsen type diff, however it does have friction disks but I have no clue what purpose they serve. I have come to some theories on what has happened.

1. One of the many previous owners had replaced the diff, as they are known as a weak spot on these cars, with a clutch type diff that is now worn and is only acting up in higher stress situations like tighter corners. Only problem is that with both wheels lifted it will and always has turned one wheel the opposite way as you turned the other, just like an open diff or a torsen

2. I am getting the inner wheel to lift enough to lose traction and thus defeating the operation of the diff. I have been seacher through forums and some s2000 drivers have found this but they are on semi slicks or better and have stiffer suspensions. As I have stock suspension with street tires I find it unlikely. I don't believe I bent any suspension components in my spin in the morning as the car drove had no pulls and the steering was still dead center

3. Honda's diff acts as a T-2r racemaster torsen style diff (hence the friction discs) were if one wheel loses complete traction the other still can turn, and I am the only one one I can find to have worn it out as well as there is no information supporting this theory

4 (My personal favorite) Car has too much Vtec, laws of physics are broken. Lmao

Sorry for the lengthy read but I would like to figure out what my best course of action is to fix this. I'm not completely against putting a clutch type diff in the car but I like the smooth locking action of this diff and fear going to a clutch type may make the car less stable as I accelerate out of higher speed corners.

Thanks for reading this.

wings2k
09-27-2015, 02:31 PM
Probably 1?

Because it's just a regular torsen inside wheel will spin on hard cornering, happened to me all the time in auto-x but never really noticed much on the track. But this was with sticky tires.

Slowpoke
09-27-2015, 06:58 PM
CanJam is a Cusco vendor/rebuilder, and having raced and rallied for decades, they're used to other diff models as well. They can help with diagnosis and can probably fix it if that is needed. Www.canjammotorsports.com

The rebuild of my stock centre diff before the shoot-out means I can get rid of some toe-out finally! Yay for rotation, but way too much for my chicken-ass tastes. Had to soften the sway bar and the compression valving...

iamthewheelman
09-27-2015, 08:13 PM
It's number 4 without a doubt in my mind....

But in all seriousness AP1 differentials are known to be weak. It would have been better to have one tire on gravel and one on pavement when you did the burnout, not that either method was super scientific.