ITR OWNERS!!! check thread plz. =)

[Boostgod]

I was wondering how many people have raced ITR's and use this forum. If you race an ITR currantly, or previously post up what you have and what class your race in. What are your oppinions on racing an ITR competitively? What are the ITR's strengths and weaknesses as i am looking to optimize my car.

BTW: I race a stock ITR in Solo 1, GT2.

Dont post if you aren't knowledgeable/experienced with the Integra Type-R.

ben :)

[miataboi]

A stock type R can DOMINATE in d-stock solo 2... and is an overall contenter.

With suspension in CSS... it too can be VERY competitive / fast.

[haniforama]

While I haven't raced one myself, I've seen them dominae many events and classes.

ITR's in SOLO1 are good in stock form in GT2, or with suspension in GT1.

ITR's in SOLO2 do well as Miatoboi suggests - Stock in DS and with suspension in CSS.

To optimze a stock ITR, get a really good alignment, keep the engine tuned and keep the oil topped up. Concentrate on improving your driving and you'll see huge improvements in lap times.

Typical bolt-ons on an ITR can give slight HP gains, but typically the stock components are pretty damn good.

I know that Carl in Montreal put on a cat-back exhaust and LOST 3 HP compared to the factory exhaust.

Hanif

[rmicroys]

If Carl can get in your car and turn better laps than you, then I suggest putting some more money in to the driver first. Racing is ultimately more about the driver than most of us would like to think.

Tires, keep the stickiest freshest tires you can on the car. After a few road racing events, the Toyos we run on definitely don't have the same grip. Every heat cycle hurts a tire... keep that in mind.

Don't screw with the motor, it's not worth the money - ITR stuff that WORKS is expensive. You're also not saying what kind of budget you have. How fast do you want to go? ;) An intake, cam gears, cams, valve springs, retainers, may be worth while - only if you're willing to take the time and bring it to the dyno to tune it properly. But then what's the cost? That stuff is expensive, a racing header, exhaust, and stuff that acutally WORKS is going to cost you a lot of coin - and then the dyno time to prove it as well. Then you'll end up with a REALLY peaky motor, as if the B18C isn't already peaky enough the way it is.

Spend some good coin on a top notch racing suspension (ie, a good stage 4 or 5, Koni double adj coil over kit from True Choice or something along that line would be my personal choice) once you think you're up to it. Remember, racing shocks do not take kindly to road use, and should be rebuilt fairly frequently. e.g. Penske recommends every 100hrs of use or every season, whichever comes first ;)

Having owned 2 ITRs (both '97s), My honest opinion about using a Type-R for Solo1? Bone Stock, Hoosiers, and some Hawk Blues. Why screw with something that Honda did so well from the factory. If it's not competitive in a stock Solo1 class, then maybe tweak what you can in class (ie, some REALLY good shocks, etc)

Road Racing is a different story...

[Boostgod]

If Carl can get in your car and turn better laps than you, then I suggest putting some more money in to the driver first. Racing is ultimately more about the driver than most of us would like to think.

Tires, keep the stickiest freshest tires you can on the car. After a few road racing events, the Toyos we run on definitely don't have the same grip. Every heat cycle hurts a tire... keep that in mind.

Don't screw with the motor, it's not worth the money - ITR stuff that WORKS is expensive. You're also not saying what kind of budget you have. How fast do you want to go? ;) An intake, cam gears, cams, valve springs, retainers, may be worth while - only if you're willing to take the time and bring it to the dyno to tune it properly. But then what's the cost? That stuff is expensive, a racing header, exhaust, and stuff that acutally WORKS is going to cost you a lot of coin - and then the dyno time to prove it as well. Then you'll end up with a REALLY peaky motor, as if the B18C isn't already peaky enough the way it is.

Spend some good coin on a top notch racing suspension (ie, a good stage 4 or 5, Koni double adj coil over kit from True Choice or something along that line would be my personal choice) once you think you're up to it. Remember, racing shocks do not take kindly to road use, and should be rebuilt fairly frequently. e.g. Penske recommends every 100hrs of use or every season, whichever comes first ;)

Having owned 2 ITRs (both '97s), My honest opinion about using a Type-R for Solo1? Bone Stock, Hoosiers, and some Hawk Blues. Why screw with something that Honda did so well from the factory. If it's not competitive in a stock Solo1 class, then maybe tweak what you can in class (ie, some REALLY good shocks, etc)

Road Racing is a different story...


great info!
i want to keep my car in gt2 for this season. i need a racing alignment but i dont have a camber kit. :confused:
also i think my shocks are going.
i was considering poly bushings but they add pips.

-ben

[Dave]

GT2 is the most competitive class for an ITR, at least for a newer driver to the series. I agree that keeping everything stock and putting some good sticky rubber and race pads on the car are the first places to start. You've got 2 PIPs to spend in GT2, so use them wisely :)

There are two ways to go with these 2 PIPs. The first way is to install adjustable shock absorbers, which will allow you to fine-tune the handling from track to track. Koni yellows come to mind as a good choice. This may be a good option for you if you think your OE shocks are on their way out. Otherwise, non-stock alignment is a definite must, and then spend that 1 other PIP on something like weight reduction (remove front passenger seat, along with the free rear seat removal) or go with an AEM cold air intake for an extra 7whp.

The ITR can also win in GT1, though it's tough class with some high horsepower cars. I won GT1 twice last year in Geo's ITR, so it can be done, though my wins were at the DDT where the handling of the ITR really shines. If you want to run in GT1, get a set of darn good race shocks/springs and be prepared to run some pretty aggressive spring rates, otherwise it's not worth the move up from GT2.

SGT3 is also a tough class, though an ITR could also do very well here with the right engine mods and use of the dyno plot option and curb weight option. But you'd have to be prepared to spend some fairly serious coin on bolt-on and internal engine mods, so I'd avoid this class for at least a few years.

Beyond SGT3, you're getting into a seriously modified ITR, basically a full-out race car.

[Boostgod]

thanks dave for your imput.
your wealth of knoledge continues to impress :)

[Dave]

no problem, Ben. I've been lucky enough to bum quite a few rides off ITR owners in HADA while my car was laid up with a variety of blown engines :)

BTW, did you get my e-mail about the brake pads I have stashed away?

[thgear]

you planning on ditching that carbon flyber hood Ben, or are you gonna keep it afterall??

[Boostgod]

carbon FLYber.... ditch???? maybe... specially if i can get some Kroni Yellows :)
and dave bring your spare pads and such to the track and we'll go from there K?

how r ur Kroni yellows treating u serge?

[Dave]

when are you at the track next, Ben? Mosport?

[thgear]

how r ur Kroni yellows treating u serge?

i love them, at full soft the comfort is identical if not better to my stock ones... granted my stock ones where shot to hell but thats a different story :D

but the ride is definetly much firmer and its easier to make the car drive "smooth", you dont have to fight it comming out of turns.

too bad i wont be able to test them fully and screw around with the rebound adjustments till TMP :(

[Boostgod]

yeah ill be there for Mosport... still debating whether to grab those project Mu or get a set of brand spanking Blues!