Classic Muscle in Solo I?

[tigeraid]

I was talking to Shaman about this, but I'd like to get everyone elses feelings...

I'm currently building up my '72 Monte Carlo for Pro Touring duty. While it is a long wheelbase car (116"), it won't weigh more than 3350-3400 lbs once I get the 'glass hood, so overall it's not THAT big. More importantly, first generation Monte Carlos with weight reduction in the hood essentially gain 50/50 weight distribution, which obviously is important for handling in a rwd car.

I've been circle track racing for about 6 years now and very much of the science of chassis setup applies to both left turns and left/right ;), so I've got a fair bit of experience setting up chassis.

The Pro Touring buildup consists of better springs (750-800 in/lb front, 230 in/lb rear), Bilstien adjustable shocks all around, boxed and webbed trailing arms, poly bushings all around, 9C1 spindles (totally redesigns the front suspension geometry for improved roll center, caster/camber and corner turn-in) and 9C1 12" disc brakes, WS6 1.5" front sway bar, probably no rear sway bar, and rear disc brakes from a WS6 Trans Am. And as I mentioned, I'm looking at 50/50 weight distribution after I swap the hood out.

So I'm just curious if anyone else has done this in Solo I (cuz I know a lot of the magazines have done pro touring, but I've never seen 'em in competition), and what you all think of the project.

[Shaman]

Someone feel free to correct me, but wouldn't tigeraid be in BSP with Jud Buchanon?

[alexb]

I believe he would be in BSP.
What i would like to know however,(fwd experience only) is why the huge spring rate change from f-r 800-230 wow!

[Shaman]

I have springs slightly stiffer than that, actually.

[tigeraid]

As you pointed out, you have front wheel drive ;). More to the point, I also have HUGE weight transfer to deal with cuz of my wheelbase, and the big difference in spring rates front to rear helps deal with understeer much better.

I didn't so much wanna know what class I would be in, by the way. I wanted to know how others have fared with this kinda combination and how well you guys think it'd work for me.

[Shaman]

Personally, I think if you work the modification numbers properly, you can have a very competitive car. Look at the Solo Ontario web site (link at the bottom of the page) and work out how many points you can use, and what you can do...

...and share with us if you have questions.

That's the best way to go at it.

[tigeraid]

Oh and for those who haven't seen the car...

http://cars.dozer.com/regulars/tigeraid/

[Dave]

cool looking car! It's like the devil's version of the General Lee! j/k. With the vintage prep point bonus and proper prep for whatever class you want to run it, I don't see any reason why you couldn't be competitive. And hell, you'd sure have a lot of fun running that beast around the track :) I like it, but then I grew up on 70's corvettes so I'm a closet muscle car guy.

[Theo]

I've got a 66 Mustang that I've been thinking of prepping for Solo 1.
A few things hold me back;

A)To me the car is irreplaceable. I've had it since I was 15. If I wreck it, it's gone. Finding another car to take it's spot would be tough.

B) Expensive to prep. Converting from 4 wheel drums to discs is enough to put me in the poor house. Than the suspension, chassis and steering would all have to be improved. $$$

C) As it is, the car puts out well over 350HP. It weights about 2400 lbs. I'm a capable driver, but that's a real handfull. And when I consider point A, it's a double whammy.

Reasons I want to do it? It would be fast, look cool, sound cool and sponsorship would be a breeze.

What would you guys do?

[Shaman]

2400 pounds? It must be pretty sparse inside. :)

[tigeraid]

I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss that car as high-dollar to run. I'm looking at about $4000 total investment in my chassis. Granted, I'm fabricating a lot of it myself, and a-body parts are easier to find, but pro touring CAN be budget.

For example, my rear disc brakes are being donated from a WS6 Trans Am, for free. Now while you might not be able to find the same for free, there are Lincolns and other Fords that came with rear disc-equipped rear ends that you can likely find in a parts yard or on ebay.

Same for front discs, I'm sure there are fat-ass Fords out there that could donate larger brakes too. You don't NEED aftermarket parts to perform well, just a good combo of parts in ideal condition. Then the somewhat cheap stuff like swaybars and poly bushings can come from the aftermarket.

The only aftermarket parts going on my chassis are the polyurethane bushings, which are fairly cheap and, more importantly, the tubular upper control arms that are REQUIRED with the talle b-body spindles I'm using. They go for like $420 american, a big hit in the wallet, but considering how little else I'm spending, it's all good.

[Theo]

I agree that it can be done, and done well with Ford parts. The problem is I don't have the time to procure the stuff, get it ready to be put on the car then mess with it to get it to fit. If I was to order it, it would be much easier. If I factored time into it, I'd probably come out ahead.

I think what will happen with the car is I'll make it a better driver's car by updating some of the technology, but I won't go full race with it.

It hasn't been driven much since 1998, although it runs great. Mostly because that's when I bought the Integra.

If were to compare the cars, the Integra is a better drivers car. If you want to "drive" the car makes it easy to go fast.

If you want to cruise, nothing beats a classic. I feel so alive when I drive that thing. The way it looks. The sound. The power. Ah, it's great.

Oh, and as far as it weighing in at 2400lbs, there really isn't much of an interior. The door panels are fibreboard, wrapped in vinyl. The dash is bare steel with a foam pad on top. Beyond that, there really isn't much there.

Great, now I want to go out and drive it. Damned winter.

[coneman]

The 2nd gen. Camaro can be made to handle very well with some parts swapping from other GM products. A friend of mine used some spindles and brakes from a Caprice Police car with the 12'' front discs. The taller spindle helped the camber curve to roll to a negative setting as the suspension loaded up in a turn. Also the stock car shops in the area have various spring rates at very resonable prices to help with your handling

[mytzlflick]

would someone please enlighten me as to vintage prep points? the only rulebook I've seen sofar is the classification proposal for this year. how many can you get for a 2nd gen f-body?