motul 300v

[kat-u13]

can i run 10w40 motorcycle oil or do I have to get the 300v chrono?
I bought the wrong one...

the properties are very similiar

here is the 300v

PROPERTIES
Colour Visual Yellow / Green Fluo
Viscosity grade SAE J 300 10W-40
Density at 20°C (68°F) ASTM D1298 0.860
Viscosity at 40°C (104°F) ASTM D445 82.3 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) ASTM D445 13.13 mm²/s
Viscosity index ASTM D2270 160
Pour point ASTM D97 -42°C / - 43°F
Flash point ASTM D92 240°C / 464°F
TBN ASTM D 2896 8.3 mg KOH/g

here is the 300v chrono

PROPERTIES
Viscosity grade SAE J 300 10W-40
Density at 20°C (68°F) ASTM D1298 0.876
Viscosity at 40°C (104°F) ASTM D445 89.5 mm²/s
Viscosity at 100°C (212°F) ASTM D445 14 mm²/s
HTHS viscosity at 150°C (302°F) ASTM D4741 4.19 mPa.s
Viscosity index ASTM D2270 161
Pour point ASTM D97 -36°C / -33°F
Flash point ASTM D92 226°C / 438°F
TBN ASTM D2896 11.7 mg KOH/g

[chincster]

I think it is better you use the auto version. Since it is possible that the properties maybe the same; but the content ratio of minerals, like zinc, etc may be better suited to that of auto engines vs motorcycles. This is probably more true for gear oils, but I think may apply to engine oils as well.

[elementZ]

Both amsoil 10w40 and rotella T6 are motorcycle rated, and I have been using them for the car with no problems.

[brownslane]

Oil formulation is very specific. Oil companies spend (literally) millions of dollars in mixing, formulating, adding and subtracting materials in their oils to achieve certain objectives. Diesel oil has very high concentrations of detergents to interact with the specific contaminants produced with diesel applications. Use of high concentrations of detergents will be damaging in a gas engine; Motorcycle oils are formulated to ensure that small particles of clutch materials will stay in suspension in the oil for a longer period of time (to allow the filter to function at its most optimum)...not needed in auto use, where the clutch is not sharing lubrication/cooling with the engine.

The original poster did not state the application he is using the oil in; that would help with recommendations!

As an engine builder, I will not warranty my work if the customer does not use the appropriate lubricant. In my case (Jaguar flat-tappet), if the customer does not ensure the appropriate amount of ZDDP is in their oil, we can see excessive and rapid camshaft wear. Damage in flat tappet engines lubricated without ZDDP will experience camshaft wear in as few as a couple of hundred kms!

I have watched with amusement the past couple of years as people continually search for "the best oil" for their engines. Let's face it; most motor oils (especially synthetics) are all great...regardless of manufacturer. I can assure you that the manufacturer has spent a whole lot more time and effort ensuring what works best for you than you could ever spend.

Use "gasoline" oils in gas engines, "diesel" oils in diesels....and motorcycle oils in bikes. You won't go wrong. The only exception to the above recommendation is that the current (since 2008) auto-based motor oils available over the counter are typically not supplying enough ZDDP for metal-to-metal contact (such as flat tappets and top rings)...ZDDP amounts were reduced to comply with EPA requests to reduce zinc emissions. Why, I am not sure, because zinc is so commonly used every day in our lives; it is the most common element in makeup, as an example. But I digress.

If you are concerned about ZDDP content, I have a suggestion; there are aftermarket ZDDP additives that work well with off-the-shelf oils. I sell and use one of them. A cheap alternative to buying, say Joe Gibb's oil at $14 a litre, or Mobil1 T oil, at $19 a litre.

Best, Tom